Keystone Cocktails Come of Age

theloft's Western Expression with 'flavour paint'

I was lucky enough last week to get an invitation down to theloft by the inimitable Jason Williams - and I must admit that I was overdue a visit. My last appearance was during last year's Bartender of the Year Competition and before that the Time Out Shake Down. But it wasn't always special events that brought me down to the wharf.  

Opened in 2003 theloft is one of Sydney's more successful cocktail bars - the first time I ever visited the joint I was sipping Mojitos with Dale De Groff and the Bartender magazine crew on a scorching hot September day back in 2006. Nestled on sunny King Street wharf theloft at the time was the epitome of everything good about Sydney and it certainly played a part it moving me over here from Auckland. As the city's bars evolved over the the next five years, however, theloft looked sure to be left behind - fortunately the good folk at Keystone Group had the foresight to hire Jason Williams the Bartender magazine Bartender of the Year 2010.

Jason has been making huge inroads into the drinks programs at all of the Keystone venues (like Cargo, Kit & Kaboodle, The Winery etc) and his latest work - the new cocktail list at theloft - seems sure to restore some of the venues serious cocktail cred. With its sleek art deco design the menu advertises signature creations, old school libations and contemporary classics. It even includes a drink from my old haunt in Auckland - Mea Culpa - the Honey & Clove Margarita  which I created in 2006. The very year I first stepped foot in theloft I might add.

Honey & Clove Margarita

The Honey & Clove Margarita includes Tequila,lime and Cointreau with a cinnamon, honey & clove syrup and a ginger salt rim. Originally I was making this drink with a house made honey & clove tequila - Sauza Hornitos infused with clove and sweetened with an organic Beechwood honey from the South Island of NZ. The infused Tequila was tasty enough to even be our punters' shot of choice. At any rate the beverage in its current format is mighty tasty booze - thanks to Thiago Santos for introducing this one to Sydney.

I might add that the drink above is one of the more simple beverages on the menu. The next tipple I went for was the Beat Generation - having been a 20th Century Lit student I just couldn't resist.

The Beat Generation

The drink itself combines Ilegal Blanco Mezcal with pineapple, agave, ale, lemon and bitters. It's served with a tasting glass of Fat Yak Pale Ale on the side and some crisps then garnished with a peach and leather dry ice 'flavour fog'. It's perhaps the fanciest boilermaker you'll ever come across and the drink is beautifully balanced - though I'd have enjoyed a little more smoke through coming from the Mezcal. But then again I'm the sort of guy who would by smoky peat chewing gum if someone would only market it. 

Pan American Clipper

The list combines creativity and a few adavanced techniques with just some damn fine choices of classic cocktails. One of my favourites has to be the Pan American Clipper - Charlie Ainsbury perhaps makes the best I've ever had, but I'll be back to theloft to see how there mix of Calvados, pommegrante, lime and absinthe holds up.  

I suggest you all get down to theloft early to mid week to stay far from the madding crowd and check this list out. It's expertly constructed and evidence yet again that it's not just 'small bars' that are doing great things in this town.

Congratulations to an Ex-Work Accomplice

Last Monday I had the singular pleasure of attending the inaugural Time Out Shake Down – a boozey battle of bartending brawn. The five finalists had to deliver their competition drinks to a thirsty sell-out crowd of punters at King Street Wharf’s theloft. They needed to show charm, wit, deft ‘tending skill and a drink with no small amount of punch to win over the judges – which in this case was the bloodthirsty revellers themselves.

Burlesque performers, Bella Pistol and Holly J’aDoll, made for excellent ring-side entertinment 

The barkeeps were each given a station where they had to bust out drinks for the Shakedown guests who would decide their fate. As if this wasn’t enough the contenders had to enter the ring (litterally) and entertain the crowd for a round – giving them the chance to sway the audience with a knockout performance.   

Victoria Room's LPC (“yeah you know me”) had a throng five deep in front of his bar station. His drink – the Louisiana inspired, Sazerac Rye laced, Turtle Soup – was a delight. I remain unsure, however, if the rabble in front of him was dazzled by his amazing chat or in a mild state of hypnosis due to his mesmerizingly slow production of drinks. Next to him was the itinerant Irishman Mr Ben McFarlane (Rockpool B&G) who together Stitch’s Matteo Fabbris had the ladies swooning with their exotic accents and potent potables. Max Grecco, from Eau De Vie, was thankfully tucked around the corner where his sabring of Champagne bottles was least likely to take out somebody’s eye. 

A victorious Nielsen Braid

Ultimately, and surprisingly given Grecco’s charismatic on-stage performance, it was Nielsen Braid (my ex-co-worker at Gardel’s Bar at Porteño) who took home Shakedown Heavyweight belt. And he did it with a blazer no less. It's a challenging drink at the best of times and an impressive feat of ‘tending prowess to deliver it successfully to so many people. 

When asked about how sweet it was to take out the comp Braid said: "Awesome! I've never won a comp before. It's was just surreal." 

For his efforts, Braid, who can now be found tending bar at The Corner House, scored a $600 bottle of Armand de Brignac and ‘a day in the life of a rock star’, starting with a chauffeur-driven tour of Sydney in a classic Australian cruiser, the 1964 EH Holden Premier and ending with dinner-for-two at Neil Perry’s Spice Temple restaurant.

I'm proud to count Nielsen among my acquaintances

My High Tea 

(serves two)

120ml Junipero Gin

20ml Agave nectar (cut 1:1)

4 Large swathes of orange zest
Ditto of lemon

4 Cloves 

1 Cinnamon quill

1 teaspoon Earl Grey tea

6 Dashes chamomile bitters 

Add gin and agave nectar to a Blazer mug or (steel milk frothing jug in a pinch). Ignite the liquid with a kitchen blowtorch and add other ingredients before passing from on jug to the other. Try to get a bit of height whilst doing this as aeration will aid the burning of the alcohol.*

*NB. This technique requires a bit of practice with un-ignited liquid before attempting live.And yes the burning of the alcohol is essential in bringing the drink down to a palatable proof.